High Mountain Oolong, Oriental Beauty, Tie Guan Yin. Even among Taiwanese teas, their aromas and flavors are completely different. This difference is not only due to the origin and variety. The "tea making process" itself, from harvesting to the finished tea leaves, significantly influences the aroma and flavor.
In this article, we will explain the process Taiwanese teas undergo to reach us, incorporating our own experiences from visiting tea production sites in Taiwan.
Taiwanese Tea is Not Completed Immediately After Picking
Taiwanese tea does not become ready to drink immediately after the leaves are picked. Although it varies depending on the type of tea—oolong, black tea, or other varieties—it typically goes through the following stages:
Tea Picking → Withering → Tumbling/Agitation → Kill-green → Rolling/Ball-rolling → Drying/Roasting
The specific methods and sequences of these processes differ based on the level of fermentation and the desired final shape of the tea.
What's important is not memorizing the order of the processes, but understanding that each step contributes to the final aroma, flavor, and shape of the tea leaves.
A Step-by-Step Look at the Taiwanese Tea Production Process
Tea Picking | Everything Starts with Picking the Leaves
In Taiwanese tea picking, the basic approach is "one bud, two leaves" or "one bud, three leaves," where the new shoot and the leaves below it are picked together. The condition of the tea leaves at this stage affects the entire subsequent tea-making process.
According to local farmers we spoke with, tea leaves picked after rain, once their surface has dried a bit, are said to have a rich flavor and aroma. Conversely, if the rain continues for too long, the tea leaves can grow too much, making it difficult to pick them in the "one bud, two leaves" or "one bud, three leaves" form. The weather and the timing of tea picking are closely related.
What is Withering? The First Step to Remove Moisture and Develop Aroma
Withering is the tea-making process of appropriately removing moisture from the picked tea leaves to prepare them for the next stage.
The leaves are dried in sunlight or indoors to remove moisture, forming the foundation for the subsequent aroma. The degree of withering significantly changes the resulting aroma.
It's important to note that this is not simply a matter of "drying for a set amount of time." From what we observed, tea masters actually check the aroma of the tea leaves as they wither, judging the optimal time to proceed to the next agitation stage. Determining when the desired aroma has been achieved largely comes down to years of experience.
Tumbling/Agitation | Gently Moving Tea Leaves to Enhance Aroma
Tumbling and agitation is a process where tea leaves are gently tumbled to create light friction. The key is to move the leaves carefully without being too forceful or rough, to avoid over-stressing them.
Similar to the withering process, this isn't a simple task of "agitate for X minutes and it's done." In the farms we visited, it was striking to see how the farmers actually smelled the tea leaves of that day, and decided the number of tumbles and timing on the spot. They would only proceed to the next stage once they felt the tea had reached the desired aroma standard.
At Taiwanese tea production sites, tea leaves are sometimes monitored 24 hours a day. While it varies by tea farmer, during the tea production season, some farmers work in shifts, continuously checking the tea leaves throughout the night to ensure no changes in aroma are missed. Not all farmers work through the night, but among the farms that CHA-EN sources from, some do dedicate themselves to the tea leaves late into the night. And some of these meticulous farmers have repeatedly won awards in Taiwanese tea competitions. This doesn't mean that "working through the night automatically guarantees high quality," but rather that their approach of meticulously assessing the condition of the tea leaves during processing is a policy that leads to high-quality tea leaves.
Since the growth of tea leaves varies from year to year, if the entire process were left to machines, there would be inconsistencies in flavor and aroma each year. That's why the tea master's judgment is indispensable, we believe.
What is Kill-green? The Process of Halting Tea Leaf Changes
Kill-green is the process of applying heat to tea leaves to stop enzyme activity, thereby halting further changes.
This is a crucial step to stop the changes that occurred during withering and tumbling/agitation at the desired point. This process determines the subsequent direction of the tea leaves' aroma and color.
Rolling/Ball-rolling | Shaping the Tea Leaves
Rolling is a process, performed only for oolong teas, where tea leaves are rolled to gently break down their cell structure, making it easier for components to be extracted. The spherical tea leaves commonly seen in Taiwanese teas are created in the subsequent "ball-rolling" process, where they are wrapped in cloth and shaped into balls under pressure.
Many Taiwanese teas are finished in a spherical shape through rolling and ball-rolling. Why are so many Taiwanese teas round? We will explain the ball-rolling process and the shape of tea leaves in more detail in a separate article, which will be posted later.
Drying/Roasting | Finalizing Aroma and Flavor
Finally, the tea leaves are dried and, if necessary, roasted. What's important here is that fermentation and roasting are different things.
| Mainly determines | Examples of Taiwanese tea | |
|---|---|---|
| Fermentation Level | Type of tea, direction of aroma and flavor | Si Ji Chun, Wenshan Baozhong (lightly fermented), Oriental Beauty (highly fermented) |
| Roasting Level | Strength of richness and sharpness | Dong Ding, Tie Guan Yin (heavily roasted) |
Fermentation and roasting are also deep topics, which we plan to cover in separate articles.
Tea Production Is Not About Performing Prescribed Tasks
As we've explained, Taiwanese tea production is not a mechanical process of following set "times, temperatures, and repetitions." The condition of the tea leaves changes from year to year, day to day, requiring constant smelling of aromas and careful assessment of their state to guide the process. We believe this accumulation of discerning judgments is what creates the unique aromas and flavors from each farm, even for the same tea variety.
The Difference Can Be Felt When You Drink It
The differences in the tea-making process are reflected in the actual drinking experience. The aroma that gently spreads in your mouth, the lingering sweet aftertaste (hui gan) you feel after swallowing, and the depth of fragrance that wafts even before you bring the cup to your lips. These elements, we believe, contribute to whether a cup of tea becomes a memorable one. Of course, "having hui gan doesn't necessarily mean high quality," but understanding the tea-making process might change how you perceive your usual cup of tea.
We, CHA-EN, deliver Taiwanese teas from various regions, valuing their unique aromas and flavors. We hope that you can keep the processes introduced here in mind, even if just a little, to help you in choosing your tea. And please enjoy your Taiwanese tea time, reflecting on these production methods.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1. What is the process for making Taiwanese tea? The basic process is tea picking → withering → tumbling/agitation → kill-green → rolling/ball-rolling → drying/roasting. The exact process varies depending on the type of tea.
Q2. What is "fermentation" in Taiwanese tea? In Taiwanese tea, "fermentation" refers to the oxidation process that occurs due to the enzymes naturally present in the tea leaves, unlike the microbial fermentation seen in foods like natto or pickles. The degree to which this oxidation progresses during withering and tumbling determines the type of tea and its aromatic profile.
Q3. What is the difference between withering and tumbling? Withering is the process of removing moisture from tea leaves to prepare them, while tumbling is the process of moving the tea leaves to create friction and promote changes in aroma.
Q4. Why are many Taiwanese tea leaves round? This is because many Taiwanese teas undergo a finishing process called ball-rolling, where the tea leaves are wrapped in cloth and rolled into a spherical shape. More details will be provided in a related article to be posted later.
Q5. What is the difference between fermentation level and roasting level? Fermentation level determines the type of tea and the direction of its aroma and flavor, while roasting level determines the strength of its richness and sharpness.
Q6. Why do teas of the same variety from different Taiwanese farms taste different? This is because the judgment calls made by each farmer and tea master during the process, based on the condition of the tea leaves, vary.
Q7. Why is it sometimes necessary to work through the night during tea production? Some farmers continuously monitor the tea leaves to ensure no changes in aroma are missed. This is not common to all farms.