High Mountain Oolong, Oriental Beauty, Tieguanyin. Even among Taiwanese teas, the aroma and flavor profiles are completely different. What creates these differences is not just the region of origin or the tea cultivar. It is the "tea production process" through which the leaves are finished that largely dictates the fragrance and taste.
In this article, we will introduce how Taiwanese tea reaches our hands, sharing our experiences from what we have actually seen and heard at tea production sites in Taiwan.
Taiwanese tea is not finished the moment it is plucked
Taiwanese tea does not become tea immediately after the leaves are plucked. While the process varies by Oolong, black tea, and other types, it is completed through the following steps:
Plucking → Withering → Shaking/Tossing → Fixation (Shaqing) → Rolling/Ball-rolling → Drying/Roasting
The progression of these steps differs depending on the degree of oxidation and the final shape of the tea.
The important thing is not to memorize the order of the processes, but to understand that each step is directly connected to the final aroma, flavor, and shape of the tea leaves.
Looking at the Taiwanese tea production process in order
Plucking | It all starts with picking the leaves
In Taiwanese tea plucking, the concept of "one bud and two leaves" or "one bud and three leaves"—picking the new bud along with the leaves beneath it—is considered the standard. The state of the leaves at this point influences the entire subsequent production process.
According to local farmers, tea leaves plucked after a bit of time has passed since rainfall, when the surface of the leaves has dried, are said to have a robust flavor and aroma. On the other hand, if it rains for too long, the tea leaves grow too much, making it difficult to pluck them in the "one bud, two leaves" or "three leaves" form. It seems the weather and the timing of the plucking are closely linked.
What is withering? The first step to removing moisture and creating aroma
Withering is a production step where moisture is moderately removed from the plucked tea leaves to prepare them for the next stage.
The leaves are dried in sunlight or indoors to let moisture evaporate, creating the foundation for the later aroma. The final aroma changes significantly depending on how much the leaves are withered.
The important point here is that this is not simply a task of "drying for a set amount of time." From what we have seen, tea masters actually check the aroma of the tea leaves to decide when to move on to the next shaking/tossing step. Deciding what level of aroma signals the time to move forward largely relies on years of experience.
Shaking/Tossing | Carefully moving the leaves to draw out the aroma
Shaking/tossing is a process of gently shaking the tea leaves to apply light friction. The key is to move them carefully to avoid putting too much stress on the leaves, rather than mixing them roughly.
As with the withering step, this is not a simple task of "shaking for X minutes to finish." At the farms we observed, it was impressive to see that they judge the number of times and the timing of the shaking by actually smelling the aroma of the leaves that day. Once they feel the target aroma standard has been reached, they advance the process to the next stage.
In the field of Taiwanese tea making, the tea leaves are sometimes watched 24 hours a day. While it varies by tea farmer, some farms continue to monitor the leaves throughout the night during the production season in shifts to ensure they do not miss any changes in aroma. Not all farmers work through the night, but among the farmers that CHA-EN sources from, some are facing the tea leaves even late into the night. Moreover, some of the farmers who continue such meticulous checks are recurring winners at Taiwanese tea contests. This does not mean that "working all night always leads to high quality," but rather it reflects a stance of producing tea while carefully assessing the state of the leaves, and I believe it is a policy that can lead to elegant tea leaves.
Since how tea leaves grow varies from year to year, leaving the entire process to machines can easily lead to inconsistencies in flavor and aroma each year. This is precisely why we feel the judgment of a tea master is indispensable.
What is fixation (Shaqing)? The step that stops the transformation
Fixation is a process of applying heat to the tea leaves to stop the action of enzymes and prevent any further changes.
This is a crucial step to halt the changes brought about by withering and shaking/tossing at the exact desired moment. This determines the direction of the subsequent aroma and color of the tea leaves.
Rolling/Ball-rolling | Creating the shape of the tea leaves
Rolling is a process—conducted only for Oolong tea—where the leaves are kneaded to lightly break down the tissues, making it easier for components to be extracted. The spherical leaf shape often seen in Taiwanese tea is created in the subsequent "ball-rolling" process, where the leaves are wrapped in cloth and rolled while applying pressure.
Some Taiwanese teas are finished into spherical shapes through rolling and ball-rolling. Why do so many Taiwanese teas have this round shape? We explain the ball-rolling process and the shape of tea leaves in detail in this article.
Drying/Roasting | Finally refining the aroma and flavor
Finally, the tea leaves are dried, and if necessary, roasted. What is important here is that oxidation level and roast level are two different things.
| Main factor determined | Examples of Taiwanese tea | |
|---|---|---|
| Oxidation Level | Tea type, direction of aroma and flavor | Si Ji Chun, Wenshan Pouchong (Light oxidation), Oriental Beauty (High oxidation) |
| Roast Level | Strength of body and crispness | Dong Ding, Tieguanyin (Strong roast) |
We also plan to explain oxidation and roast levels in a separate article, as they are profound topics.
Tea production is not about performing fixed tasks
As we have introduced here, making Taiwanese tea is not a task of mechanically following "time, temperature, and count." Because the condition of the tea leaves changes depending on the year and the day, it is necessary to proceed while smelling the aroma and assessing their state. We feel that this accumulation of effort is what creates the distinct aromas and flavors that differ from farmer to farmer, even for the same cultivar.
The difference can also be felt when drinking
The differences in the tea production process are also linked to the sensation when actually drinking it. The aroma that softly spreads in the mouth, the lingering sweet aftertaste (Huigan) felt after swallowing, and the depth of the fragrance that wafts before you even take a sip—we believe these elements also relate to whether or not a cup stays in your memory. Of course, "having a sweet aftertaste" does not necessarily mean it is high quality, but knowing the production process might change what you perceive from your usual cup.
At CHA-EN, we deliver tea leaves from all over Taiwan while cherishing their aroma and flavor. We hope you will keep the processes introduced here in the back of your mind and find it useful when choosing tea. Also, please enjoy your Taiwanese tea time while reflecting on these production methods.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1. What is the process of making Taiwanese tea? The basic flow is Plucking → Withering → Shaking/Tossing → Fixation → Rolling/Ball-rolling → Drying/Roasting. The progression differs depending on the type of tea.
Q2. What is "oxidation" in Taiwanese tea? Unlike fermentation by microorganisms found in natto or pickles, "oxidation" in Taiwanese tea refers to the progress of oxidation due to the action of enzymes inherent in the tea leaves. The degree to which this oxidation progresses during the withering and shaking stages determines the type of tea and the direction of its aroma.
Q3. What is the difference between withering and shaking/tossing? Withering is the process of removing moisture from the leaves to prepare their state, while shaking/tossing is the process of moving the leaves to induce friction and promote changes in aroma.
Q4. Why are many Taiwanese tea leaves round? It is because many are finished by wrapping the leaves in cloth and rolling them during the ball-rolling process. Please see this article for details.
Q5. What is the difference between oxidation level and roast level? Oxidation level determines the type of tea and the direction of its aroma and flavor, while roast level determines the strength of body and crispness.
Q6. Why does the taste differ by farmer even for the same Taiwanese tea? Because the judgments made to proceed with the steps while checking the condition of the leaves differ for every farmer and tea master.
Q7. Why do they sometimes work through the night in tea production? Because some farmers continue to check the tea leaves to ensure they do not miss changes in aroma. This is not common to all farmers.